July 1, 2021

DIY SHIPLAP & PEG RAIL FEATURE WALL

Anyone else as excited as I am for the launch of the Magnolia Network this month? It has me watching reruns of Fixer Upper on a loop, which equals A LOT of shiplap. Just in time for the renovation of my son’s play room, which will eventually transition to his “big boy” room. Here is the mood board I created for his room to draw inspiration.

I knew I wanted a feature wall of some sort with vertical shiplap but also wanted space to display some of his special things, so a shiplap/peg-rail shelf combo was born and I love the combination of the dark green, mixed with the warm wood. Such an old world vibe.

Here are all the details, starting with the supplies used for the feature wall:

SUPPLIES:

STEP 1:

Cut all of the shiplap to the height.

STEP 2:

Nail the shiplap to the wall using a nail gun and 1 3/4″ nails. You can do this a couple different ways. You can start in the middle of the wall and work your way out so that the two edge boards are the same width (I would use this technique if you are doing one straight wall) or start from an end and continue down the entire wall. I used this technique since I had a corner to work around, so that I could use one board, 45 degree angled together. Saved money and time, that’s a double win! I used my table saw, but you could also use a skill saw to cut the angle. When you run into light switches or electrical outlets, measure and use a jig saw to cut around them.

I also had to work around a built in shelf, so I measured and cut around the shelf.

STEP 3:

Caulk the seams and wood fill all of the nail holes. I caulked between the last board and the edge of the wall for a seamless look. I also caulked around the shelf. Use a paintable, water based caulk for easy clean up and paintable/stainable wood filler for the nail holes. Once dry, sand off any remaining wood filler.

STEP 4:

Now it’s time to paint! I used Sherwin Williams, Oakmoss in their Emerald Matte sheen. It’s matte but doesn’t leave marks like most matte paints. It can also be wiped down with water or a special cleaning spray that Sherwin William’s sells that won’t pull the color like most household cleaners. Perfect for a little boy’s room!

STEP 5:

My favorite step…build the peg-rail runner and shelf. I think it’s my favorite because I’m a wood worker at heart and this step just adds that little, extra oomph that the wall needed. I used a 1×4 for both the peg-rail and shelf because the door opens in and I just didn’t have room for anything bigger. If I did, I would use a 1×6 for the shelf to allow extra room on the shelf. First, cut the lumber. I had to do some 45 degree angle cuts since I was wrapping around a wall.

Once the lumber is cut down, measure and mark the spacing of each wooden peg. I found it easiest to find the middle of the board and draw a line down the length of the board. Then I found the middle again and used that intersection for my first dowel. I like the look of a lot of dowels, close together, so I spaced them 5 inches apart. Next, drill the holes for the dowels. I used my fancy, new drill press but you can always use a drill and drill bit.

Then sand the peg-rail and shelf until smooth. Use a few drops of wood glue in each hole and push the dowels into the drilled holes. A rubber mallet is useful if you have a stubborn dowel. Now stain. I used Minwax Provincial. Once everything is dry, nail the shelf to the peg-rail board.

Use a level and nail it in place. If you have a stud finder, nail into the studs. If not, just make sure you are adding plenty of nails. If your son is anything like mine, you want it to withstand a toddler hanging from the shelf. If you need to wood fill the nail holes in the peg-rail, I recommend using a stain pencil, like the one below. I’ve never found a wood filler that stains well, so I just rub a little of the stain pencil into each hole.

Optional: If you are a perfectionist like me, I would recommend caulking in between the peg-rail and shiplap and touching up the paint. It takes a bit of patience, but it’s worth it. If a perfect seam doesn’t bother you, totally skip this step!

STEP 6:

Insert extenders into your light switches and electrical outlets. This allows them to sit flush with the new shiplap. Then screw on the original face plates and do that project is finished, happy dance.

Here is the finished product. What do you think? I think it’s the perfect first project for Luca’s playroom/future “big boy” room. I can’t wait to knock out the next one. The room should be done by the time he’s a teenager…I hope. For more details and videos on this feature wall, check out my Instagram stories.